Spirit of Carnival

Not many people know that the Carnival of Viareggio is the third most famous in the world after Rio de Janeiro and Venice. With the first one it has in common the great participation of people to the spirit of parades and night folkloristic feasts; with the second it shares the artistic refinement of its paper-machè masterpieces which are admired as true works of arts such as the luxurious masquerades in Venice.

To the people of Viareggio, the Carnival is not just a world famous event, but a “mood”, an emotional state which invades everyone hearts and minds from youngs to adults for about one month before Lent. People participate in the Carnival feeling as if “confetti flawed in her/his veins”. Nobody will care if your still have some sparkling gel on your face or a glimpse of hair colour is yet visible on Monday morning…nobody will care if you are a bit tiered-looking after a Carnival party at “Rione Darsena”[1] because he/she was probably there too!

Everyone will think about a new disguise and have it tailor-made for the occasion (pre-packed disguises are for foreigners, we say…), will look at the agenda of January/February and skip dates which could compromise enjoying Sunday parades, night street parties or theatre shows…

Everything starts when the King of Carnival, Burlamacco[2], flag is hoisted in Piazza Mazzini in front of the sea hailed by the hymn of Viareggio Carnival “Sulla coppa di champagne[3]”…then on each Sunday morning, especially if sun is shining, you cannot miss the magic moment of getting a first glance of floats displaced on the Liberty broad walk, still motionless, silent of music but glittering with colour and almost reaching the top of surrounding buildings…

When the cannon shots thunder in the air for three times, fleets of families, baby buggies, youngsters all attired as tigers, cats, Dalmatians, clowns and spider men start filling each corner of the long promenade under the rainfall of confetti and streamers…

Everyone in Viareggio has a favourite “corner” to watch the floats passing through…mine is in front of the Grand Hotel Royal, which is almost in the middle of the track and allows a wide view of floats coming from both sides…at any time then, you can have a winter stroll on the seashore and look at the parade in the distance, like in a silent movie where the sea is the background music…If you do not mind the crowd and to shrink like a sardine to find your way through the multitude of dancing parties, you must reach out for the “Misericordia” stall and taste a warm bombolone, a fried ring shaped cake topped with white sugar grains slightly smelling of lemon peel.

When the sun goes down and three cannon shots decree the end of  parades, Carnival is not finished yet…the city resounds with new joyful tunes from street bands and the air is soaked with tasty fish cooking smells coming up from the traditional local kitchens displayed along the streets in the harbour area or right in the central market area..it’s the so-called “Rione mascherato[4]” gathering people to eat, drink and dance till late night. Many people in Viareggio found their boy/girlfriend during a Rione macherato, and I am not an exception!

You cannot miss this unique experience,  merge in the mess of people, breath the great energy in the air and join the carnival feeling.

So, now you know what the people from Viareggio feel like when the Carnival comes, therefore you need to get started to it! I am going to give you some useful tips to get as much from your experience of the Viareggio Carnival and I will lead through my preferred Carnival shopping tour!

Start from the Citadel of Carnival[5] and get a first fresh ignition of Carnival feeling. Access is free and you can have the chance to peep into the papier-mâché floats hangars and look at artists at work. You can also have a tour and visit the Museum of Carnival as well as experience a laboratory of  papier-mâché directly onsite, to get some handcrafted, colourful souvenirs and gifts for our children or even to make your own one. Each piece will be the unique proof of your stay in Viareggio.

After your visit, go back to the sea front avenue and, if you are driving, park in the area of Hotel Principe di Piemonte.  The entrance to the parade is very close to it and upon departure you will easily find your way to the motorway.

Now it’s time for Carnival tips

Souvenirs

Papier-mâché souvenirs &laboratories

Le Botteghe della Cartapesta

www.lebotteghedellacartapesta.com

Carnival Disguises rental

Bazaar

Via Macchiavelli corner Via S. Andrea 16/18

Viareggio (LU)

tel: 0584 32263

Theatre disguises Tailoring and Rental

White di Penna

Via Sauro 59

Viareggio (LU)

tel: 0584 960724

http://www.sartoriateatrale.com/

Make-up and Wigs

Versilia Parrucche

Via A. Fratti, 277

tel. 0584 943922

55049 Viareggio (LU)

http://www.versiliaparrucche.it/home.htm

Carnival pastries

Look for “frittelle di riso”[6] and  “cenci”[7]

When you are there, have a cup of chocolate together! Divine!

 

Bar Pasticceria Patalani

Via Giuseppe Zanardelli, 183

55049 Viareggio (Toscana)

Tel: +39 0584 47279

 

For kids

Check it out in Piazza Mazzini for papier-mâché laboratories for kids and make-up

Suggested Refreshments in the Carnival area

Breakfast, tea time or aperitif

On the promenade. Its specialities are bomboloni, cenci, frittelle di riso.

Pasticceria La Fauzia

Viale Margherita 82

Viareggio

tel : 0584 49200

Afternoon snack

One of the best ice-cream maker in Versilia. Just beside the Grand Hotel Royal.

Gelateria Anisare

Via Mentana, 1/A

Viareggio (LU)

Tel: +39 0584 425026

For lunch in a sunny day

If the weather allows it, you will have lunch in front of the sea in the open air and be ready to join the Carnival parade at a short distance.

Tito del Molo

Viale Margherita 1

Viareggio

Tel: +39 0584-433577

www.titodelmolo.com

Fish restaurant outside the Carnival area

Not far from the Carnival entrance. Enjoy a short stroll on the sea broad walk before entering the Carnival parade

Ristorante Massimo

Via M.Buonarroti, 263

55049 - Città Giardino (LU)

Tel: +39 0584 50704

At night for your aperitif with friends in the Darsena area

Very contemporary design lounge bar where you can have a cocktail or a glass of wine picking at some nice starters and appetizers.

Lucifero Di Patalani Roberta & C. Sas

7, Via Oberdan Guglielmo,

Viareggio,

Tel: +39 0584 387845‎

[1] Rione Darsena: carnival night street feasts in Viareggio harbour area, where you can eat traditional fish recipes and dance over local carnival bands music. Provide you wear a mask or disguise to enjoy the real Rione’s spirit.

[2] Burlamacco: official mask of the Carnival of Viareggio. Burlamacco was first depicted in 1931 by Umberto Bonetti; A competition had been held for the design of the mascot and his was the winning entry. He had chosen the red and white of the outfit from the traditional colours of the umbrellas on the beach at Viareggio and the name came 8 years later; it is derived from the Burlamacca river, which crosses Viareggio to the sea.

[3] Sulla coppa di champagne: from "Il Carnevale a Viareggio" (Su la coppa di champagne), L. Maffei

[4] Rione mascherato: open air masquerade street feasts: For infos on the programme http://www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/

[5] Citadel of Carnival : Phone: +39 0584.51176 - E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

[6] “frittelle di riso”: fried balls of rice and chantilly cream topped with white sugar

[7]  “cenci” (the word means rags) stripes of fried dough covered of confectioner’s sugar